Fashion designer Abigail Keats makes breathtaking garments that not only make women look gorgeous but portrays them as strong and powerful at the same time. She designs sophisticated and elegant fashion that embraces masculinity to create the perfect edge within any woman’s wardrobe. Her clothes are meant for women who are confident, strong, have an abundance of self-respect and those who know they are both beautiful inward and outward no matter what their flaws are. Abigail only started designing clothes professionally last year, but her designs are already making waves in this highly competitive industry. When she’s not creating exquisite outfits or exploring art and interior deco, this 23-year-old curls up on a couch with a big slab of chocolate and watches DVDs. She speaks to Tiisetso Tlelima about her love for art and her journey to becoming a fashion designer.
What inspired you to become a fashion designer?
“Throughout high school I had a very strong interest in art which lead me to explore possible career choices that embraced artistic flare and values. Fashion was a clear-cut winner. I fell in love with the idea that I could express my creative talent and passion through a three-dimensional form and thus pursued a career in fashion. I have never looked back!”
How did you get into fashion design?
“After discovering my love for fashion I applied to study at the London International School of Fashion. I studied for three years here, graduating top of my year with seven distinctions. Throughout my studies I realized every garment had the ability to express my thoughts and ideas. Every collection presented the opportunity to incorporate a signature message. It was this realization that turned my love for fashion into a deep blazing passion for the industry. In my final year I showcased my end-year college collection. It was here that African Fashion International discovered me and asked me to attend an interview to participate in the Audi Autumn/Winter Fashion Week 2008 as a new generation fashion designer. In March of 2008 I took to the ramp for the very first time. The media response was amazing, so I decided to pursue my dream and establish my own label. Since then I have participated in Joburg Spring/Summer Fashion Week 08, Audi Autumn/Winter 09 Fashion Week and just recently Arise Africa Fashion Week 2009.”
Is it important to go to fashion school to excel as a designer?
“Most definitely! Fashion school is essential for learning and understanding both the basic and complex principles of fashion as well as the perfect environment to nurture, grow and experiment with your creative flare. College provides an important foundation that is necessary to understand the creative and technical skills required within the fashion industry.
Do you think having a strong sense of sewing skills is important in fashion design?
“I think it’s very important to have a solid understanding of the fundamentals of both sewing and pattern construction in order to successfully understand the technical capabilities and restrictions when designing a garment.”
What inspires your designs?
“My inspiration comes in many different forms and shapes, for instance, my love for art and self-expression as well as an appreciation for life and the talent I have been given. However my Spring/Summer 2009 collection finds inspiration in my need to innovate and create a range that reflects a personal journey of growth and discovery, while still maintaining a strong emphasis on exerting the power and grace within the female physique, to not only create unique looks but also sophisticated and glamorous styles.”
What colours are you most drawn to?
“I’m most attracted to and work most with neutral colours. I love the versatility they provide. Neutrals can be both classical and contemporary. I also enjoy working with metallics in order to highlight and complement certain aspects of the design or collection.”
What fabrics do you use for your designs?
“I use a lot of different fabrics! Plain, printed, everyday, luxury, textured, non-textured, lightweight, heavy weight, knitted, woven. To name a few: raw silks, pure cottons, lycra/cotton blends, denims, pure linen, leather etc. However when I go out to source fabrics first and foremost I look for fabrics that provide two things: 1. High quality and 2. That they relate to the market in which my brand has been established.”
Your style is often described as “a sophisticated art form that plays with the paradox between masculine tailoring and a feminine figure”. How are you able to express this in your designs?
“This paradox is expressed through the use of contrasting masculine and feminine fits, detailing and fabrics. For example, a structured tailored jacket with fastening buckles will be coupled with a lightweight sheer blouse that has a gentle gathers and a bow. This paradox can be both obvious and subtle. By coupling garments, this paradox is highlighted but by combining contrasting details within one garment, it becomes extremely subtle and sometimes to the untrained eye invisible.”
You launched your first collection in 2008 at the Audi’s Autumn/Winter fashion week. What have you learnt since that first time you had your clothes on catwalk?
“That practical knowledge you gain while working in the industry is gold! I realized that it is only through working within the industry do you really evolve as a designer in a creative, technical and business sense. The longer you work in the industry the more ‘tricks of the trade’ you learn and thus you are able to incorporate so much more into your designs and brand. I have grown so much as a designer purely due to my positive and negative experiences. As a designer I have learnt to embrace the good and the bad and to learn from mistakes in order to move forward to greater heights.”
What is the most challenging thing about your work?
“The most challenging thing about my work as a self-employed designer is to accept that only about 20% of my time can be spent on creative output. The remaining 80% is spent on business aspects that relate to establishing a brand. This time is essential in order to build solid foundations for the future.”
What do you most enjoy about designing?
“The creative freeness and the sense of accomplishment you get from developing a two-dimensional sketch to a three-dimensional work of art.”
What are you working on now?
“I am currently looking at the possibility of opening my own boutique.”
To view more clothes designed by Abigail visit her website on www.abigailkeates.com
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